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Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Free Wheel is made of German silver
Dressed in maillechort.
Ulysse Nardin provides delivered a stunning take on their most forward-thinking tourbillon still, the Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. The limited release watch defies the cutting-edge aesthetic that Ulysse Nardin has generally embraced lately by cleverly blending typical decorative techniques with a striking three-dimensional structure.
The latest Blast Free Wheel retains the novel activity architecture, with its upgraded shifting parts and constant push mechanism integrated within the tourbillon, but now features a traditional maillechort (German silver) grained platter.
Original Feelings The Free Wheel collection has a long background, with a long list of scenario variations available over the years, and also this new model is undoubtedly one of the most outstanding yet. The Votre Locle-based brand is known for the overall bold design type and extreme modernism, and so the vintage-inspired design of the maillechort watch is surprising nevertheless particularly eye-catching.
The Blast Free Tyre retains the slightly exaggerated situation design, but the modernity is somewhat more restrained, and the futuristic mobility is softened by it has the exquisite craftsmanship. As the label suggests, the core part of this watch is maillechort brass alloy, a more well known name - German magic.
This material is certainly used in historical watches and is also usually associated with classic designer watches such as A. Lange & Söhne or artisan watchmakers, yet here it complements the avant-garde movement.
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The actual soft silver-grey hue connected with German silver perfectly cause the modern structure of the Free Wheel tourbillon movement. The particular rough grain texture in the main plate even jogs my memory of antique marine chronograph movements with gold-plated liquid movements - a installing tribute to Ulysse Nardin's long history in ocean horology.
The sole downside to this watch could be the strange but uninspired circumstance design, which is large as well as multi-faceted. Plus, at over $120, 000, it’s a little pricey, which puts the item in competition with more lightweight tourbillons.
Virtually any discussion of the Blast Free Wheel should center close to its movement. From the outset, the actual UN-176 movement was designed to end up being “floating. ” While “floating” barrels or flying tourbillons are common in their own proper, the Free Wheel motion is perhaps the only movement inside modern watchmaking that has the vast majority of its moving parts “floating. ”
Typically the movement features two barrels stacked in series from 12 o’clock, seemingly halted without an upper bridge. These kinds of “flying barrels” have been applied extensively by the likes associated with Derek Pratt, and they typically require complex construction. Planning the two stacked barrels inside a flying arrangement simplifies this. Together, the two mainsprings supply a seven-day power reserve.
Adjacent to the coaxial barrels is a tiered power reserve differential (also in a flying configuration) and a complex set of lowering planetary gears.
The futuristic power reserve signal is located away from the differential, at about four o’clock. This means that the power reserve operations is transmitted directly to the particular indicator, but this composition gives the impression that there is simply no connection between the components.
Tying the movements together is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock. We certainly have previously explored the nature and also history of flying tourbillons in an article. Although the Blast Free Wheel Tourbillon employs the classic structure, there is one particular element that makes it unique rapid the Ulysse Anchor Regular Escapement developed in-house simply by Ulysse Nardin.
Small Constant Force Escapement The Ulysse Core Constant Escapement, made of si, debuted in 2014 and possesses been used by Ulysse Nardin in some watches since then. Often the Anchor Constant Escapement not merely uses a modified Swiss escapement geometry, but also features a regular force device that shields the oscillator from the regarding the mainspring's power rot away.
The concept resembles the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement, but the execution is different, enjoying the real advantages of silicon producing, thus simplifying the construction.
The core thought remains the same: the balance is usually driven by a pair of skinny, flexible silicon blades, identifying the balance from the main push train. The escapement 1st " charges" the mower blades, which then quickly switch from stable equilibrium position to a new and release the energy to the balance. The mainspring as well as the drive train are hence isolated from the oscillator.
When the balance permits the anchor escapement, this receives power from the linked clasp, while the escape tyre stores energy for the next routine. The balance uses a free equilibrium spring made of silicon instructions the Ulysse Nardin oscillator vibrates at a frequency of two. 5 Hz.
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Due to the elastic properties regarding silicon and its structure, the vitality transmitted by the escapement is a same every time. Even if the benefits of the mainspring decreases, evoking the escape wheel to load typically the blades more slowly or fewer forcefully, the oscillator constantly receives the same amount of energy from your return of the silicon knives, thus improving its isochronism.
The system is definitely slim and light enough to match on a tourbillon platform. Rather than traditional lever and impact pivot, it uses a ingenious curved pivot as the escapement anchor. The curved pivot is a clever mechanism that will creates a virtual pivot level with a crossed leaf early spring. This significantly reduces scrubbing and gives the pivoting aspect some interesting properties. As the escapement anchor works with often the curved pivot, there is no need to get a jeweled lever or a committed bridge to fix it.
The main plate along with back plate are made of uncoated German silver, which is a specific silver-grey color with a small golden sheen. At first glance, that looks as shiny since new German silver, a lot of it has not been dealt with in any way, Ulysse Nardin claims that the case will develop hook patina over time.
The choice of a striking graining that resembles traditional covered finishes was inspired at this time and complements the handcrafted texture and almost monochrome seem of the movement. The use of translucent gemstones allows the activity to be dominated by just a couple of colors: blue and grey.
Wide and boxy case The 45 millimeter diameter case is very modern day, with faceted, angular lugs and caseback. The case is constructed of white gold, with brushed in addition to polished surfaces to create an exceptionally complex pattern.
It also has a slightly high diameter of 45mm. This is certainly partly due to its domed sky-blue crystal mirror structure, nevertheless the case contains a wide mobility ring, which seems an easy task to reduce, perhaps to a right 42mm case.
A highlight of the case design is the " box" blue crystal mirror, which tilts downward to form a see-through case side. This allows the tiers of the movement to be seen easily, which is rare outside of hand-made watchmaking. This complex design also makes the watch fuller than 12. 4mm.
Ulysse Nardin Send Free Wheel Maillechort Ref. 1760-401LE-4A-MAIL/3A
Diameter: 45 mm Thickness: 12. 4 millimeter Material: White gold Mirror: Sapphire Water proofing: 30 meters
Movement: Cal. UN-176 Functions: Hours, minutes, reserve of power display, constant-force escapement traveling by air tourbillon Winding approach: Manual Frequency: 20, 000 times per hour (2. 5 Hz) Reserve of power: 7 days
Straps: Water-resistant rubber strap